In one of many two large debuts of Paris Vogue Week, the Zegna Group successfully relaunched the home of Tom Ford with the primary assortment by Haider Ackermann introduced with nice anticipation on Wednesday evening. And the preliminary response from the jury on the gathering is in: It’s successful.
See catwalkTom Ford – Fall-Winter2025 – 2026 – Womenswear – France – Paris – ©Launchmetrics/highlight
The good and the nice all gathered inside Pavillon Vendôme, a mid-sized show-space in central Paris, carried out up in Prussian grey mirrored partitions with banquette seating and three runways. “I knew how I was going to stage the show the first day I started this job,” revealed the ever-confident Haider.
Pre-show the environment was palpable. Ford making a last-minute entrance in darkness, sitting between Jared Leto and Anna Wintour. No less than he confirmed up. Eighteen months in the past, when his former proper hand man Peter Hawkins made his debut as designer at Tom Ford, Tom didn’t even present up. Cancelling his attendance on the final minute after Hawkins made some lower than considered criticisms of Ford in an article within the New York Occasions. Haider was way more circumspect pre-show. And his assortment was considerably stronger. Certainly, Ackermann’s ego has by no means been blemished by a way of false modesty, even when he has the repute of being one of many much less industrious designers of main expertise. However one may solely admire his determination pre-show to put up a photograph of himself in mattress studying the Occasions, wrapped in a Tom Ford advert, on Instagram. Everybody beloved that.
See catwalk
Tom Ford – Fall-Winter2025 – 2026 – Womenswear – France – Paris – ©Launchmetrics/highlight
He kicked off the present with loads of punch – hyper-ironed leather-based seems with a soupçon of transgression. All of them impeccably lower – razor-sharp perfectos for gals; taught biker jackets for guys; redingotes with matching leather-based tops for rockstars; surgeon’s coats for femme fatales. He lower wool banker’s fits for robust ladies; and double-face dressing robes for Silicon Valley unicorn breeders. His greatest tailoring was a mohair double-breasted fop’s jacket held along with a security pin and completed with a white silk rose. The make-up was pale sinister spy, and the environment moody with a modernist Hitchcockian soundtrack that includes Jóhan Jóhansson’s “Good Night, Day”. For night, Haider draped with talent, however virtually too reverentially in the direction of the Ford DNA. These of us who’ve attended a dozen or extra Ackermann signature exhibits know he’s able to a lot extra.
See catwalk
Tom Ford – Fall-Winter2025 – 2026 – Womenswear – France – Paris – ©Launchmetrics/highlight
That stated, this was a robust assertion, and far wanted by Zegna. It is very important notice that the Italian luxurious group has positioned a really massive wager on the way forward for Tom Ford’s vogue home. In impact, it paid some $300 million for a 20-year license to Tom Ford’s vogue and equipment division, which was not ever noticeably worthwhile. The far bigger magnificence and perfume enterprise of Ford is owned by Estée Lauder. However all instructed, this was an excellent assortment, even when not fairly an important one. However that was greater than sufficient to sense one other palpable feeling on the present’s finish. Aid that Haider Ackermann at Tom Ford must be successful.
