Revealed
January 17, 2025
The very indie home of Setchu made its runway debut at Pitti on Thursday, at the same time as its founder Satoshi Kuwata confused this “Tokyo on the Arno” assortment can be his first and final catwalk present.
See catwalkSetchu – Fall-Winter2025 – 2026 – Menswear – Italie – Florence – ©Launchmetrics/highlight
A really intelligent mix of Japan-born Satoshi’s disparate influences – the place kimonos met Savile Row and Japanese iconography rubbed up towards European demi-mondaine – this was a hyper thought-provoking assortment, positive to be one of many season’s finest style statements.
Offered contained in the Nationwide Library of Florence, on the banks of the Arno – weirdly virtually devoid of precise books – this quirkily timeless assortment opened with daintily distorted English aristocratic stylish.
A noble but offbeat couple in virtually matching positive wool frocks and deep gray tartan pants and skirt. Completely summing up Satoshi’s dialectical oeuvre. Educated by Huntsman and Davies & Sons, the latter is oldest tailors on Savile Row, Satoshi is a superb sample cutter – a ability few of his contemporaries will ever obtain. He allies this ability with an intriguing Japanese obsession with folds. In a pre-show presentation, he even folded up a blazer into a wise cardboard field, one thing a Westerner would solely do with a shirt. He additionally injects creases into most appears to be like, an concept culled from his residence nation. “Usually, you don’t want a crease on a garment, but in a kimono the beauty is in the crease on the shoulder,” defined Satoshi. One needed to love his gentlemanly blazers – once more worn by a gal and man – with inbuilt creases, or an excellent trilogy of creased traditional blue gents’ shirts. One reduce right into a halter neck celebration frock was completely horny and funky. And worn by a mannequin, styled with a black cut-out mini fish over her mouth. Like many Asia designers, Satoshi loves going fishing. Yohji Yamamoto fishes all around the Pacific; John Rocha likes to fish in Alaska or the Bering Sea; Kuwata casts for snapper off Japan.
See catwalk
Setchu – Fall-Winter2025 – 2026 – Menswear – Italie – Florence – ©Launchmetrics/highlight
Expressing his need to check out new territory – like his jumbled up pale grey jersey deconstructed sweatshirts and monitor pants; Kimono peacoat assemblages; palest grey denim product of denim and paper or his posh army leather-based peacoats, completed with chunky lace. Immediately altering gears with some fantasy multicolor Mongolian lamb coats; and a Story of Genji jacquard silk jacket with a print of an aroused octopus embracing a geisha. The print and the picture that impressed it a part of an prolonged set up revealed upstairs after the present that included shoe lasts; collar particulars; fastidiously folded jackets in brown bins; hyper exact style sketches and Sixteenth-century drawings of the photo voltaic system. “Our approach is not fashion. We try to create a culture,” insisted Satoshi, the 2023 LVMH Prize winner. Briefly, Milan-based Setchu is now probably the most unique manufacturers in style. Cerebral, crafty, artily elegant, intelligent and business. Simply ask Hirofumi Kurino, Asia’s most influential menswear purchaser, who buys the Setchu whole search for his key United Arrows flagships in Tokyo. The East-meets-west second persevering with at a post-show dinner, in a charmingly revamped farmhouse within the hills above Florence, the place Japanese dishes like shrimp meatballs with fungi porcini have been adopted with Tuscan tagliata with yuzu sauce. Tokyo on the Arno, certainly.
