Translated by
Nicola Mira
Revealed
February 2, 2025
Paris Haute Couture Week for the Spring/Summer season 2025 collections has showcased subtle and extremely ingenious creations, comparable to these introduced on Thursday by Franck Sorbier, who continues together with his superb artisanal work, Viktor & Rolf, which reinterpreted the codes of high fashion, and Gaurav Gupta, who blended spirituality and a futuristic vibe.
See catwalkFranck Sorbier, Spring/Summer season 2025 – ©Launchmetrics/highlight
This season, Franck Sorbier created a set filled with contrasts. Black contrasted with smooth hues, structured textures with light-weight ones, and energy with finesse. The gathering was impressed by the theme of barbarians and historic Rome. Sorbier’s first silhouettes put the emphasis on supplies. They featured darkish clothes alternating with shimmering, metallic ones, made utilizing the compression method developed by Sorbier, by which totally different supplies, comparable to velvet, taffeta and pleated materials, are assembled and stitched collectively.
The clothes consisted of panels that floated downward, whereas their tops appeared virtually like cuirasses. A sinuously formed costume was made with swathes of bronze-coloured cloth, as if minimize out of animal disguise. Quick A-line clothes with massive collars, some adorned with cloth feathers, have been paying homage to the outfits of a Roman legions’ centurions.
They have been made in a shiny, textured jacquard cloth, typically threaded with metallic, typically with golden leaves, giving them an opulent Seventies vibe. “These are young people’s looks, very cocktail party,” mentioned Sorbier, including that “it’s important for haute couture to have a young allure. It’s also a message for the future. We’re preparing tomorrow today.”
The present ended with ethereal silhouettes that includes pastel-coloured muslin clothes, vaporous and gathered on the prime. They represented peace, embodied in younger women holding olive branches, accompanied by the melodious voice of opera singer Catherine Trautmann singing the Pie Jesu aria from Gabriel Fauré’s “Requiem”. As all the time, Sorbier managed to arouse emotion. He took a transparent stand in opposition to struggle, displaying the image of peace on the again of his jacket.
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Viktor & Rolf, Spring/Summer season 2025 – ©Launchmetrics/highlight
Because it typically does, Viktor & Rolf took a tongue-in-cheek method to high fashion. Designers Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren targeted this time on a single silhouette, which they introduced in 24 attainable variations. “Beige silk gazar trench coat, white gazar shirt, blue gazar trousers,” recited an off-stage voice as every look walked out, each time introducing a completely totally different creation.
The ditch coat performed the starring position, typically enveloping the physique in voluminous coat-dresses, together with luxurious night robes and an imposing cape. In turns, the coats have been richly embellished with knots, ruffles, gathers, pleated bands, or overflowed with strips of cloth with frayed hems. Some gadgets featured oversize collars and burgeoning shoulders. Others morphed right into a crinkled draped jacket, or a brief biker-style prime. In some circumstances, the coats dropped right down to the ankles, cinched with a belt under the buttocks, or prolonged into a protracted prepare. In one more model, the sleeves have been tied on the waist in an enormous knot, whereas the coat was decreased to a cloak overlaying simply the thighs behind the trousers. Certainly one of Viktor & Rolf’s trench coats even became a costume for a doll connected to the mannequin’s waist.
The label performed the identical magician’s methods with the white shirt, turning right into a costume, and that includes it in all attainable shapes and puffed-up volumes. And with the blue trousers, reworked as wanted into assorted shorts, gathered knickers, and naturally right into a skirt. The method was paying homage to a earlier assortment, that of Spring/Summer season 2024, by which the designer duo introduced 4 totally different variations of every wardrobe staple, every minimize in numerous shapes.
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Gaurav Gupta, Spring/Summer season 2025 – ©Launchmetrics/highlight
Gaurav Gupta introduced a high-impact assortment emphasising hanging, sculptural silhouettes. His fashions appeared like goddesses or warriors from distant galaxies, clad in slinky black sheath clothes with outsized collars, their faces and heads adorned with masks and futuristic jewelry.
Clothes in black velvet or silk have been accented by gold and midnight blue metallic parts: gleaming brooches, serpents snaking throughout the chest, belts, metallic bras, plastrons, and armour-like corsets. Ribbons floated airily round a prime. Cascades of crystals beaded lengthy clothes. Some silhouettes’ natural shapes have been paying homage to Iris van Herpen.
The gathering was entitled “Across the Flame”, and was conceived as a celebration of resilience. The Indian designer, who studied at Central Saint Martins in London, is celebrating his label’s twentieth anniversary this 12 months. He was the sufferer of a fireplace which severely injured him and his accomplice Navkirat Sodhi. The latter opened the present treading barefoot on the runway, sporting a tulle veil that hardly hid his scars, and reciting a poem about his therapeutic journey. Two fashions laced collectively right into a single orange draped sari symbolised resilience within the assortment.
