Milan witnessed a bumper season of shoe designs this week, the place manufacturers targeted on their DNA at the same time as they subtly superior and subverted their codes with audacious new supplies and strategies. FashionNetwork.com caught up with a half-dozen of one of the best: Santoni, Casadei, Stuart Weitzman, Giuseppe Zanotti, Gianvito Rossi and Alexandre Birman.
Santoni: Fetes its fiftieth with “Meraviglia”
No model made a much bigger impression this week than Santoni, which celebrated its fiftieth anniversary with appreciable type.
Santoni Fall/Winter 2025 assortment – Courtesy
Add in some superbly burnished gents footwear that appeared like they had been polished a thousand instances. Or, for the women, a sequence of shearling fur boots that appeared wealthy, snug and completely with it. “Our anniversary is not just a celebration of past achievements but a recognition of the hands that continue to shape Santoni’s future. It is a testament to the makers, the visionaries and the pursuit of beauty that will define Santoni for anther 50 years,” insisted CEO Giuseppe Santoni, sporting his newest spiffy new bespoke go well with.
Casadei: To Infinity and past
What caught the attention most at Casadei, had been design star Giuseppe’s new infinity heels, a sequence hyperlink made right into a sturdy curve that supported some nice patent leather-based boots and sling backs.
Casadei fall/winter 2025 assortment – Courtesy
“Not a weapon, but a weapon of seduction,” quipped the designer. Casadei was all about practicality with punch. Nice shearling boots, with seen wool trim, and supper using boots for town.
“Women wear ski jackets and Moncler in the city nowadays and not just on the slopes. These styles work with that spirit,” he added. A venerable model, however one very with it, like in its multi-room mid-century trendy showroom on Through Bigli. Every room embellished otherwise: powerful stylish mirrors in a single; black and white marble within the subsequent; pure white in a 3rd; and a stack of video displays in an set up area for the Infinity. Based again within the Nineteen Fifties, Casadei nonetheless has its personal manufacturing unit close to Rimini, using 160 folks. Made in Italy in March area, this assortment was worthy of a celebration.
Stuart Weitzman: Modernism overlooking the Duomo
Tops marks for Stuart Weitzman for its location – the highest ground Sala Fontana on the Museo Del Novecento, with improbable views of the Duomo. And, extra tellingly, some nice Italian modernist artwork, dovetailing with the model’s putting new concepts.
Like its “Vinnie” assortment, a spread outlined by an angular heel and sculptural pointed toe. In addition to a really contemporary method to energy pumps and energy boots, together with back-stretch knee-high boots impressed by the model’s iconic 5050 boot. This Stuart Weitzman basic has been copied by scores of different manufacturers, however nothing beats the unique. One might admire its “Hudson” assortment, that includes a brand new lug-sole silhouette, including a touch of city grit with chukka boots, lace-up booties and Chelsea boots. Sensible footwear, however with punch. “Our strategic focus is on developing emotional product driven by our consumer needs, feedback and insights. With innovative new takes on her favorite silhouette, the iconic 5050, and… the best-selling Vinnie, the collection brings our consumer both an homage to our brand’s heritage and a definitive step forward into the next era for the brand,” opined Jonathan Lelonek, SVP, world wholesale, Stuart Weitzman, in a tour of the gathering.
Giuseppe Zanotti: Maintaining devoted to his DNA
To thine personal self be true, Shakespeare wrote, and Giuseppe Zanotti is actually loyal to that dictum.
Guiseppe Zanotti fall/winter 2025 assortment – Courtesy
“I wanted to get back to my true spirit,” explained Zanotti in his elegant 17th-century palazzo HQ in Milan. Which is high gloss glamour with soul, creating some great new high heels with precise golden-tipped soles – whether on square shoes or high heels. Declining the heels with three different heights: 45, 90 or 105 millimeters, and stripping it back to the minimal with several of his classics: the slingback, Brenda, his mule, Myra, and the much-admired, Mary Jane. Giuseppe also dreamed up some remarkable red-carpet high heels named Intrigo, where clusters of silver crystal buds, mini roses and petals grid the ankle. For the most confident of women – and thus very much a Zanotti gal – the intrigue of Intrigo will be fantastic.
Gianvito Rossi: King of the colorists
No brand anywhere quite manages to combine craftsmanship with cool design as Gianvito Rossi. To an almost uncanny extent.
Gianvito Rossi – Courtesy
Take his new Art Deco selection, where the tiniest lines of golden-hued leather are inserted with brilliant delicacy. Made in buttery soft suede in Imperial Roman purple or a deep red rust, the technique was seen to great effect in spike-heel boots; chunky 70s style platforms or slingbacks. Gianvito also had the most distinctive color palette of any shoe marque this season. Seen in a charming metal tree in his via Santa Spirito showroom, from which hung a dozen high heels in a great array of soft sherbets, bitter oranges, dusty pinks and Connemara green. “But my favorite will always be the gray, as it is just so deep,” smiled Gianvito.
Alexandre Birman: Tropical curves in new showroom
Final however not least, Alexandre Birman unveiled its brand-new showroom on Through Bigli 11, marking an vital new chapter for the Brazilian home.
Alexandre Birman Fall/Winter 2025 assortment – Courtesy
Underlining its links back to the great stars of Brazilian architecture – from Oscar Niemeyer to Lina Bo Bardi – with many looks. Specifically in the excellent sculptural shapes and heels, echoing those architects’ preferred forms, which in turn, were inspired by the unique topography of Brazil – from its granite seaside boulder to its undulating mountain ridges. For fall 2025, the standouts include a Tortoise Patent Series – clever twists on classic silhouettes, featuring high-gloss tortoise finishes and grosgrain detailing. While a series of slingbacks with knotted straps suggested the fauna above Rio. Luxurious materials abounded, notably velvety suedes used to create a stretchy glove boot of great character, while the country’s long tradition in weaving was highlighted in woven leather sandals and pumps, that were admirable and chic. “For Fall 2025, we needed to discover how type and performance coexist – taking inspiration from modernist structure and translating that into footwear that really feel daring but easy,” confused Guilherme Kfouri, artistic director of Alexandre Birman. The model Alexandre Birman was based by its namesake again in 2008. Immediately, Alexandre serves because the chief govt officer of the model’s father or mother firm, AZZAS. It’s Latin America’s largest trend conglomerate. This season, in its new showroom, the footwear of Alexandre Birman has not often appeared higher.
