In a quiet high fashion season in Paris, town wanted a significant wow-factor debut, however it didn’t actually get one at Glenn Martens’ first present for Maison Margiela Artisanal on Wednesday evening.
Maison Margiela Artisanal fall/winter 2025 – FashionNetwork.com
There have been undoubtedly some moments of actual magic, notably some extremely distinctive aviary motion – from elegant feathered seems, to some daring and sensible tailor-made coats made in a Renaissance type prints of sport birds. The ultimate night clothes in crepe and silk completed in small clouds of lace confirmed a extremely expert draper at work. To these, we add a kicky collection of mashed up inside materials, which one imagined founder Martin Margiela would have cherished.
Nevertheless, the choice to cowl each mannequin’s head with a masks, skullcap and even cooper pot finally felt drained and repetitive. It additionally meant most of the solid had been compelled to plod ponderously across the present area. Publish-show, many iPhone movies that editors shot appeared like slo-mos even when they had been filmed in actual time.
Maison Margiela Artisanal fall/winter 2025 assortment – FashionNetwork.com
Staged in 104, a north Paris artwork and theater show-space the place Martin Margiela staged reveals, the set was a mock marble palace that had fallen on laborious occasions. Martens’ opening seems had loads of punch: a collection of clothes and robes made in scrunched up plastic, with no underwear seen. Their accompanying masks had been scrunched up plastic too. A splendid conical costume adopted in a shade of degraded concrete, with lining and skullcap made from silvery beading. Born because the conceptual model par excellence, a collection on darkish fits or the home’s signature painted denims coated in muddy plastic appeared logical.
Then Glenn went into overdrive with two humungous yellow gold and blackened silver metallic clothes, leotards and masks had been beautifully theatrical. Nevertheless, whereas the garments should have been difficult to make they had been clearly much more difficult to put on. Many fashions might barely transfer their legs. And the solid hesitated to even flip as they marched by way of the varied rooms and corridors of the set.
Maison Margiela Artisanal fall/winter 2025 assortment – FashionNetwork.com
A number of strums of a Spanish guitar introduced the start of this present, whose crescendo was The Smashing Pumpkins’ “Disarm”. However this present didn’t disarm or enchant. Martens at all times had a tough act to comply with, seeing as the ultimate couture present of his predecessor was probably the most acclaimed trend present of the last decade. Martens has at all times been a really gifted designer, and nonetheless appears a very good match for Margiela.
Nevertheless, all advised, this present appeared like a pale shadow of that last epic Galliano show.
