Printed
January 25, 2025
East met west at Kenzo this season, even when not that harmoniously, in a group that was greeted with virtually deafening silence.
See catwalkKenzo – Fall-Winter2025 – 2026 – Menswear – France – Paris – ©Launchmetrics/highlight
One may politely describe this fall 2025 assortment as a noble effort, however which didn’t fairly gel. The gathering marked the primary by Japanese creator Nigo because the appointment of design director Joshua Alec Bullen, who joined Kenzo after impressing at Givenchy, one other LVMH model. The pair have been working carefully for the previous two months. Offered contained in the Musée de Chaillot, a incredible Nineteen Thirties advanced on the Seine, whose show-space provided excellent views of the Eiffel Tower. The nice monument showing on a neat, zippered cardigan and likewise a pink shirt – positioned alongside Japan’s most well-known vista, Mount Fujimori.
Identical to that pair, the style duo tried to duet in two cultures, combining traditional French tailoring and superb materials with Kenzo Takada’s love of loopy shiny hues. Resulting in a captivating opening – felty, boxy jackets; purple blooming pants; elegantly outsized businessmen coats or cardigans in mohair – created in sherbet lime, smooth pinks or mid inexperienced. Half the solid clutched purple cloth roses; others held bottles hidden inside paper baggage fabricated from leather-based. A pun on New Jersey consuming legal guidelines? The place any bottle of beer must be hid, at ache of a superb. However when it got here to XXXL safari jackets in absurd garish paisley prints, it was laborious to think about what lady, or man, would wish to date somebody wearing these garments. Too typically the garments had been nearly superb, but additionally largely formulaic.
See catwalk
Kenzo – Fall-Winter2025 – 2026 – Menswear – France – Paris – ©Launchmetrics/highlight
That segued right into a sequence of embroidered florals few of which labored, besides maybe one in pale cotton canvas, the identical look Pharrell Williams wore within the entrance row. Sportingly attending Nigo’s present after their collaboration on Vuitton, seen on Monday. Williams sitting near LVMH style group boss Sidney Toledano and French actor, Vincent Cassel. One sensed the seeds of a attainable optimistic collaboration between Nigo and Joshua in some fluid closing tailoring and quirky kimono denim. However the temper was additional dampened by a mordant cellist, after a pre-show pandemonium of paparazzi for some very obscure Ok-pop singers. Main on the finale to essentially the most tepid applause this critic has heard at a Paris present in a decade. That was the misplaced telling second of all.
