Revealed
January 26, 2025
Paris menswear bristled with a vibrant collection of shows, showrooms and capsule pop-ups this week. Vogue Community caught up with 4: Yves Salomon, That’s So Armani, Berluti, and Commas.
Yves Salomon
The runways of Milan had been bristling with shearling final weekend, most of it reinvented as unique fur. However, if you need the true factor, one wants to go to Yves Salomon in Paris.
Yves Salomon Fall/Winter 2025 assortment – Courtesy
Enjoying on new proportions and the present obsession with the banded collar, Yves produced sensible, plucked mink shirt jackets and coats – the last word in cool cozy luxurious. He confirmed the smartest Eisenhower made in glistening agneau côtelé – that means ‘ribbed lambskin’.
Yves additionally labored some magic by including iridescent inexperienced sheens to some minks; and unveiled a exceptional new waxed lambskin calf leather-based that was ethereally easy. Matching many seems to be with ribbed corduroy pants and creamy cashmere hoodies. For extra unique moments, there was a rock star blouson made of untamed Rocky Mountain lynx. “We want to create a full wardrobe of the Yves Salomon man, and his lifestyle,” defined Yves, proudly displaying a putting intarsia mink cowl for a sublime daybed. Considered one of a half-dozen items of furnishings that he confirmed in a Milan artwork gallery in final yr’s Salon di Cellular. In a busy second, the model not too long ago opened a big new house in Harrods, and instantly catapulted into the famed division retailer’s prime 5 manufacturers alongside the likes of Hermès and Chanel. Final week in Milan, from Dolce & Gabbana to Prada, the catwalks had been swollen with what the Italians known as “fur free” shearling. Salomon went one higher with fab shearling reimagined as rockstar wolf redingote or Vegas crooner white fox – each in shearling.
That’s So Armani
Giorgio Armani took the chance of Paris menswear to debut a brand new capsule entitled, “That’s So Armani”. Unveiling the idea in his Faubourg St Honoré retailer, with a champagne-fueled viewing in his ethereal modernist house.
A glance from the That is So Armani assortment – Courtesy
What’s intelligent about That is So Armani is that it captures in only a few choose seems to be the Italian grasp’s DNA – like flawless and fluid tailoring; in premium supplies comparable to vicuña, cashmere, and fantastic wools; and a transparent coherent colour palette – navy blue and black. It’s a capsule wardrobe for males on the transfer – Armani single- and double-breasted jackets, knitted blazers with rolled hems, neat blousons, crew-neck pullovers, T-shirts, shirts, trousers, and swish night put on. The final ultimate to put on on the post-launch celebration close by in Maxim’s lasting till the wee hours. Heralded in a brand new That’s So Armani marketing campaign shot by Luis Alberto Rodriguez, and that includes an eclectic trio of abilities: producer Kaytranada, mannequin and actor Archie Renaux, and mannequin and musician, Soo Joo. The gathering is out there in choose Giorgio Armani boutiques together with Milan, Paris, New York, Beijing, and Tokyo and on-line.
Berluti: Feting 130 with Alessandro
The home celebrated its one hundred and thirtieth anniversary this yr, and it was all concerning the lush-yet-tough legacy of the model at Berluti’s presentation contained in the Simone and Cino Del Duca Basis.
Berluti Fall/Winter 2025 assortment – Courtesy
And a primary glimpse of the highest flooring of the storied mansion, the place pleasure of place went to at least one nice stripped again and agreeably aged shoe, an unique Alessandro by Berluti from the model’s start in 1895. A cultured and basic shoe, which Berluti confirmed in a number of types – from a brand new squared toe model to a white-sole sneaker by its former artistic director Kris Van Assche. Many made within the deepest black, although toned in deep purple or forest inexperienced to catch the sunshine. Its new males’s ready-to-wear additionally referenced legacy – seen in a large minimize corduroy smock jacket with patch pockets and excessive neck, customized made for Le Corbusier. Components of which riffed by way of some easy deconstructed cashmere double face blazers; herring pale grey bone coats; and workerist jackets worn with leather-based hoodies. Shut by had been sketches and pictures of Berluti historical past – from Alain Delon’s shoe lasts to an illustration of the pale gold boot the home made for Andy Warhol when Yves Saint Laurent introduced him to their boutique to buy.
Commas: Australian style’s subsequent huge factor
The newest Australian label to make an impression in Europe is Commas, introduced in a showroom reverse Galeries Lafayette revamped with mid-century furnishings.
Richard Jarman on the Commas showroom in Paris – Courtesy
Commas’ DNA is all about chasing the solar, not so shocking because the founder, Richard Jarman, and his missus, Emma, surf nearly day by day from their residence on Cronulla Seaside in south Sydney. “We are in the water every day, as is our son George and he is 18 months old,” beams Jarman, who named the model the concept that all of us want a pause, like a comma. Jarman debuted Commas at Pitti in 2017, instantly profitable a considerable order from then booming Matches. The model’s cool seaside stylish; pure fibers like linen; simple match and sunny temper then gathered followers rapidly. Neatly, his enterprise technique dovetails – opening pop-ups in occurring motels, summer season golf equipment and resort boutiques – to drive consideration and gross sales. “Our products are a blend of very wearable and very suitable there,” smiles Jarman. Regardless of the demise of Matches – a painful expertise – they nonetheless do very effectively on-line with the likes of MyTheresa and Ounass, the Center East’s premier luxe web site, managed by Al Thayer, a specialist firm owned by the United Arab Emirates ruling household. Commas’ personal e-commerce is recent and engaging, like their advert campaigns, which they shoot on Ipanema Seaside in Rio. At present, additionally they boast over 25 common purchasers. And discuss areas; promoting within the Oetker lodge chain just like the Eden Roc in Antibes or the Bristol in Paris. “Matches closing did hurt. But it pushed us to invest in our own stock, and believe in us more,” says Jarman. Enterprise is probably not enormous – some $2.5 million yearly – however Commas appears poised for fast development. Commas’ first pop-ups had been in Sydney, in hipster inside metropolis suburb Paddington or additional north on Palm Seaside. They’ve skipped most runway reveals, besides a legendary occasion at dawn on Tamarama Seaside at 7am on June 1, 2021. “Everyone said, ‘are you mad? That’s the first morning of winter in Australia!’ But we got loads of great press and a huge turnout!” Commas has additionally pulled off activations in Harrods; Bloomingdales in Dubai; and a pop-up in uber occurring Scorpios membership in Mykonos, which opens to three a.m. “People shop after spraying champagne. And the boutique stays open to 3 a.m.!” he marvels. “I’d also love the challenge of one day doing a hotel,” says Jarman, who additionally retails in Raes on Wategos lodge in Byron Bay, arguably the nation’s greatest beachside boutique lodge. And the place Commas staged one other cool activation: a cocktail celebration adopted by a movie projection. Suitably it was “La Piscine” starring Alain Delon, bien sûr.
