Translated by
Nicola Mira
Revealed
January 23, 2025
T-shirts that includes cats with studded collars, piercing rings alongside silvery sequins on a silk wrap skirt, denim briefs bordered with rings and steel charms, and even a printed kitten superciliously staring from the entrance of a thin pair of panties: Blumarine has undergone fairly a reboot, refreshed by the iconoclastic hand of recent artistic director David Koma.
A glance from Blumarine’s fall 2025 pre-collection – Blumarine
Koma, Georgia-born and London-based, took cost of favor final summer season on the Italian luxurious label, owned since 2019 by the Exelite (ex-Eccellenze Italiane) holding firm of Liu Jo’s founder and boss, Marco Marchi. Koma was a last-minute alternative for Walter Chiapponi, who left rapidly after only one season. Forward of his first present with Blumarine, scheduled on February 27 in Milan, Koma has offered a style of the path he intends to present the label, by unveiling the autumn 2025 pre-collection.
The primary impression is that Blumarine, famend for its opulent romanticism, has been given an power enhance. A sequence of slinky, horny lengthy clothes in silk and chiffon, lace nighties and ruffled crepe clothes sporting Blumarine’s typical floral and animal-print motifs, featured alongside zesty objects with a youthful vibe, very best for on a regular basis put on just like the denims, plain or distressed, the black leather-based jacket-and-trousers set, and the smooth white swimsuit, for that businesswoman look.
“It’s a first glimpse of my work, a pre-collection in which I focused on the product. For me, it’s important to elevate product quality. Blumarine stands for affordable but quality luxury. Everything is made in Italy. We want to remain in a high-end luxury segment with all our categories, including our everyday wardrobe,” stated Koma, chatting with FashionNetwork.com at Blumarine’s Milanese showroom.
“I’ve tapped the label’s signature elements, reinterpreting them in a contemporary way. I thought about a multi-generational wardrobe, targeting both mothers and daughters, and I blended everything with my own style,” stated Koma, who now lives and works between London and Milan, the place he has been visiting all kinds of neighbourhoods, step by step discovering the town’s many sides. “The more you live in this city, the more you fall in love with it,” he added.
A glance from Blumarine’s fall 2025 pre-collection – Blumarine
Koma owns a small Pinscher canine named Ruby, and was shocked at how welcoming Milan is to pets and their homeowners. This gave him the concept of introducing an animal theme within the assortment, particularly since certainly one of Helmut Newton’s most placing campaigns for Blumarine, relationship again to the Nineties, depicted a number of girls with their canines.
He has sprinkled meows and woofs with abandon throughout the gathering, in prints with the identical lettering of the label’s brand, and did the identical on the jewelry, whereas the T-shirts sported silhouettes of big cats. Koma even created a crystal-studded leather-based sleeve bracelet to carry the pets’ poo baggage. An merchandise each engaging and sensible. “I thought it was fun to play with this image. Generally speaking, Blumarine girls don’t take themselves too seriously, though they can be very stylish. There’s always an element of cheerful amusement,” stated Koma.
His generally slightly provocative humour runs by this assortment, the place East London meets Milan. For instance, the khaki trousers with a utilitarian vibe, but bordered with lace garlands. The openwork bra embroidered at chest top on smart little turtle-neck sweaters. And the sweet pink fur enhancing the collar of a denim jacket or the sides of a shearling purse.
