Revealed
February 27, 2025
Iceberg opened Milan Vogue Week in signature type. The style model, produced by Gilmar and celebrating its fiftieth anniversary, infused its Fall-Winter 2025/26 assortment with a mix of Italian angle, English heritage, and Irish knitwear experience. As soon as once more, British designer James Lengthy took the inventive helm, delivering a set that balances custom with up to date edge.
See catwalkIceberg – Fall-Winter 2025/26 – Womenswear – Milan – ©Launchmetrics/highlight
“The heart of Iceberg is in the knitwear, and it is in mine as well. I consider this season’s collection to be quite cozy—comfortable yet always ultra-desirable. I wanted to celebrate the knitting, techniques, and treatments we love, blending them with tailoring that plays between tradition and subversion, in a dynamic, sporty dimension that is always in motion,” inventive director James Lengthy informed FashionNetwork.com. “I focused heavily on the shapes of the garments. Laces structure the pieces, while knitwear techniques are pushed beyond their limits to express a strong point of view. Iceberg’s positive energy is embedded in these smart, metropolitan looks. My guiding principle was ‘freedom’—in textures, in the use of colors, and in a mix of smart constructions with a balance of softness, femininity, and draped fabrics, because I also love tailoring.”
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Iceberg – Fall-Winter2025 – 2026 – Womenswear – Italy – Milan – ©Launchmetrics/highlight
“This is an extremely complex and uncertain time, and the challenge for both creative direction and company leadership is to find the right path when everything feels so complicated,” mentioned Paolo Gerani, CEO of Gilmar, talking backstage on the défilé. “The state of fashion is intricate—you can’t sum it up in just a few words. Some markets are more fluid and spontaneous, but at the same time, there is a shift in the globalized approach, which is changing the way fashion operates. There seems to be a growing detachment, not just due to general uncertainty but also because of a shift in consumer attitudes. Shoppers are now far less drawn to what was once considered ‘fashionable.’ Today, they seek more democratic, affordable pieces and are no longer chasing constant, frantic change.”
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Iceberg – Fall-Winter2025 – 2026 – Womenswear – Italy – Milan – ©Launchmetrics/highlight
“In our industry, there are so many variables to consider. At Gilmar, we strive to stay true to ourselves and always deliver high quality, embracing a democratic Made in Italy approach, even in terms of pricing,” Gerani continued, although he acknowledged the continuing challenges within the sector. “Some brands are thriving, but the core of the business is struggling. The outlook is complex, and I don’t have a clear vision of what lies ahead. I can’t predict when this period of uncertainty will pass—I can only hope that the wars and the resulting economic and financial tensions will come to an end. Beyond that, I believe greater attention must be given to employees and workers, who now have very little spending power. Reviving the economy will be extremely difficult.”
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Iceberg – Fall-Winter 2025/26 – Womenswear – Milan – ©Launchmetrics/highlight
Returning to the gathering, a ribbed grey sweater stands out with its vast sailor collar, paired with tailor-made, masculine-cut pants cinched on the waist with a mock-croc belt. The ribbed knit attire function an open collar, a dropped waist, and a pleated skirt with fluid motion, layered over a examine poplin miniskirt with ruffles for a playful distinction of textures and lightness.
Test tailoring achieves a steadiness between softness and construction, with a collar completed in fake leather-based for added character. A tuxedo shirt with ruffles is so delicate it verges on transparency. A masculine double-breasted examine go well with is layered below a lace-up poplin coat, completed with uncooked edges to subvert basic tailoring conventions. The colour palette explores three key shades: variations of blue, pinkish grey, and tweed mustard.
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Iceberg – Fall-Winter2025 – 2026 – Womenswear – Italy – Milan – ©Launchmetrics/highlight
Since its inception, Iceberg has made knitwear experimentation its signature. This season, it takes kind in navy maxi stripes on an outsized ribbed sweater, accented with wool panels on the shoulders for distinction and a sporty contact. The excessive collar rises snugly, lined with fake shearling for added heat. In the meantime, outsized inlaid wool plaid coats are structured with fake leather-based particulars and profiled edges, paired with knee-length poplin skirts that includes tender ruffles and metallic eyelets.
The gathering additionally introduces a wool metropolis coat seamlessly sewn onto plaid poplin material, in addition to a pretend leather-based jacket with a cracked impact that reveals shade because it creases. Cardigans tackle a sculptural high quality by means of bonding strategies, styled effortlessly with tender denims and sneakers. Tailor-made pants full the lineup, provided in low-waisted, beltless designs with inverted pleats completed in satin or fake leather-based piping alongside the seams.
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Iceberg – Fall-Winter 2025/26 – Womenswear – Milan – ©Launchmetrics/highlight
Closing the present have been two outsized cardigan coats, so vast they featured an built-in scarf that skimmed the ground, nearly like a marriage costume.
Equipment stood out, together with mock-croc sandals with triple buckles and a medium heel, in addition to flat boots with a minimalist design. Belts in crocodile print ran all through the gathering, whereas maxi luggage in fake crocodile leather-based provided versatility from day to nighttime.
