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February 24, 2025
Regardless of a half-decade of Brexit, ignited in some ways by a perverse concern of immigration, London Vogue Week witnessed a putting day of motion by designers, few of whom have been born in Britain.
Roksanda: Malleable mode
No designer in London provokes such a hushed sense of awe as Roksanda, whose newest assortment had an virtually mesmerizing impact on its viewers.
See catwalkRoksanda – Fall-Winter2025 – 2026 – Womenswear – Royaume-Uni – Londres – ©Launchmetrics/highlight
Staged on the highest ground of Area Home, a rotund constructing in Covent Backyard, the solid marched round in a circle earlier than improbable views of London’s newest era of skyscrapers. Their kinds evoked within the bravura silhouettes dreamed up by Serbian-born Roksanda Ilinčić. From the Shard to the Cheesegrater to the Shaver, their eclectic shapes and profiles virtually magically appeared within the three-sizes-too-big blazers or wool sheathes sprouting cloth like balconies from the hip.
However above all, it was Roksanda’s capacity to make hyper-exaggerated proportions work that marked this out as a really particular assortment. Like an absurdly elegant outsized tuxedo coat worn with grand sequined skirt or two lovely lavender pink layered chiffon and silk attire. Her prints have been additionally outstanding: scanned pictures of left over plastic combined with daring painted strokes, riffing on the present’s inspiration, British artist Phyllida Barlow, recognized for her sculptural drawings and crudely painted industrial constructions.
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Roksanda – Fall-Winter2025 – 2026 – Womenswear – Royaume-Uni – Londres – ©Launchmetrics/highlight
A tape of Barlow’s from her closing interview earlier than her passing ended the present in a poignant finale. Including to the right selection of music: Simply (After Music of Songs) by Melissa Hughes, Jamie Jordan and others, like modernist Gregorian chant, or post-modern cathedral music. “And I suppose for me, sculpture, whatever sculpture is, it isn’t just the object I think, it’s a sentient physicality of something that replaces us with our own physicality,” says Barlow, fairly tellingly sounding like a intelligent touch upon this assortment. Resulting in a fantastic finale, Roksanda triumphing with a half-dozen diaphanous robes, completed with large petals composed of neoprene minimize with a flourish Frank Gehry would have envied.
Chet Lo: The East fights again
A kicky and edgy tackle trend from Chet Lo, whose aim of reinterpreting Asia tropes into subversive stylish led to a kick-ass present.
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Chet Lo – Fall-Winter2025 – 2026 – Womenswear – Royaume-Uni – Londres – ©Launchmetrics/highlight
Physique-con boldness all through, led by some nice clingy knitwear as Lo riffed on Chinoiserie in padded sweaters, slit-up-the-knee skirts, some nice attractive graphic knitwear, figure-hugging jackets and mini skirts. Although the guts of the matter was Lo’s fetish merino wool spike appears, seen in lengthy night sheathes, skinny sweaters or sleeves of blazers.In a co-ed present, the fellows wore trim knits, their shoulders topped with spikes, fluid pants and tremendous new sneakers wrapped in spikes, courtesy of the newest linkup in LFW of Converse.
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Chet Lo – Fall-Winter2025 – 2026 – Womenswear – Royaume-Uni – Londres – ©Launchmetrics/highlight
You realize a designer is doing one thing proper when the fashions dig the garments. As the women definitely did immediately at Chet Lo, an Asian American from New York. One might think about them fortunately exiting the present house at 180 The Strand in these taking place outfits and off to get pleasure from a celebration in ever-swinging London.
Simone Rocha: The tortoise and the hare
Simone Rocha injected a big dose of robust stylish into her aesthetic, including one other weapon to her formidable design aesthetic. Although the strongest reminiscence of this assortment would be the Noah’s Ark of animals that entangled the solid. From satin luggage minimize within the form of hares and plastic tortoises, to faux-fur Rhesus monkey backpacks and bunny ear nylon luggage, animals embraced most appears.
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Simone Rocha – Fall-Winter2025 – 2026 – Womenswear – Royaume-Uni – Londres – ©Launchmetrics/highlight
Staged inside Goldsmith’s Corridor within the metropolis of London, Rocha’s newest historic location for one among her reveals, it was a wonderful assortment, the place Dublin-born Simone broke new floor with racy negligee appears and semi-sheer cocktails, albeit worn with bobby socks. At all times joyful to mix in some punk rock grit, Rocha additionally confirmed very good biker jackets minimize like tunics and completed with puff sleeves. The solid additionally completely loving the garments as they paraded round Goldsmith’s Corridor, the place the Duke of Wellington and Robert Peel dined in 1835 at its opening dinner.
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Simone Rocha – Fall-Winter2025 – 2026 – Womenswear – Royaume-Uni – Londres – ©Launchmetrics/highlight
Toga: Ingenious eccentricity
Unlikely pairings and sudden proportions and combos have been on the coronary heart of the newest assortment from Toga by founder Yasuko Furuta, offered inside a again room of the Royal Academy.
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Toga – Fall-Winter2025 – 2026 – Womenswear – Royaume-Uni – Londres – ©Launchmetrics/highlight
The end result was a hit-and-miss assortment, although one among appreciable cool by this Japanese designer. What labored have been the wrap round blazers or ribbed army sweaters accessorized with large males’s cotton collars; the reverse mannish blazers with enormous cut-out Renaissance collars; or some fab’ multi-reverse pleat pants. What didn’t work have been: have been the fake fur minimize like furrows, or quick capes worn over inflated bubble skirts in test – a dressmaker’s caper if ever there was one.
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Toga – Fall-Winter2025 – 2026 – Womenswear – Royaume-Uni – Londres – ©Launchmetrics/highlight
That stated, her footwear was the good in London, from crystal sequined studded, silver heeled boots for boys, to silver buckle ballet slippers from which sprouted fangs of horsehair. Erratic, however nicely well worth the go to.
Paolo Carzana: A star is born
Final however very not least, an enthralling trend second by London’s most decisive new expertise, Paolo Carzana.
Paolo Carzan autumn/winter 2025 assortment at London Vogue Week
Introduced in a tiny wee pub known as The Holy Tavern with simply 40 patrons inside; a dozen on bar stools in gentle rain on the pavement; and a rating extra followers inside a slender Victorian passage named St John’s Path. From which emerged a pleasant gang of beguilingly raveled dandies and molls, all attired in bizarrely dyed materials, crumpled and creased and sewn into Restoration pirate stylish. Superbly bedraggled, the solid wore a group that was tied, twisted, coiled and ruched – like extras from “The Raft of the Medusa”. Completed with tough seams and unspooling threads, the garments regarded like that they had a lifetime of their very own. The fashions heads completed with mashed up sans culottes caps, or lopsided mini turbans. A co-ed present that ended with a poetically oft-kilter Charlotte Corday following her gang into the pub. “I wanted to show where we are today – in purgatory. We live in dark times… Because humanity is destroying our planet. And also the way that LGBT rights are being taken away from us, so we cannot be ourselves,” defined a palpitating Carzana.
Who took his bow virtually overwhelmed with emotion. A sustained ovation of cheering heralding Carzana, led by Sir Paul Smith, his mentor in a cool new trend incubator put collectively within the East Finish of London. Suppose – a star is born.
