Revealed
January 20, 2025
Few designers are reinventing the menswear as skillfully and innovatively as Alessandro Sartori, who staged a superb present on Monday afternoon, riffing on top-notch Torino stylish.
See catwalkZegna – Fall-Winter2025 – 2026 – Menswear – Italie – Milan – ©Launchmetrics/highlight
Staged inside a mammoth artwork set up, this Zegna present introduced down the curtains on the four-day Milan menswear season. A season which, although it contained comparatively few reveals – a naked dozen – nonetheless packed loads of modern punch. Nowhere extra so than at Zegna, the place the guts of the gathering was a exceptional new sequence of materials primarily based referred to as “Vellus Aureum,” a super-fine thread manufactured from the best wool of 100% traceable, eco-friendly Australian Merino sheep. Vellus Aureum refers back to the legendary “Golden Fleece” that Jason and the Argonauts sought of their legendary quest, recognized way back to Homer.
In first-rate material fabrications, Zegna developed 4 key supplies from Vellus Aureum – jersey, flannel, beaver and panno militare, Italian for Melton wool. All that includes a exceptional new hand, clean but sturdy. And within the case of the jersey, surprisingly stretchy, with out containing any synthetic fibers. Sartori, who has led the transfer to in direction of larger quantity in menswear, continues to experiment. His refined new shapes with decrease waist, dropped pockets, extensive pants and reverse pleats all made for garments that appeared very, very as we speak. Including a splash of sophistication with references to gentlemanly creatives from Torino within the 70s and 80s.
See catwalkZegna – Fall-Winter2025 – 2026 – Menswear – Italie – Milan – ©Launchmetrics/highlight
A number of stylish houndstooth test appeared manufactured from patchwork, inside varied patterns, however on nearer inspection had been manufactured from single items of material woven quite amazingly. He lower some nice new coats, slicing pockets diagonally and elevating collars cathedral excessive, including a raffish temper. Plus, he dreamed up some lovely new cashmere tweed jackets, both in cool checks or stony soil Donegal tweedy – each with vivid flecks. Sartori’s set was additionally suitably grand – 2,000 sq. meters of Australian prairie with small rolling hills, identical to the place Merino sheep vary in New South Wales. Enormous cinematic screens had been hung horizontally projecting black-and-white movie of 1000’s of Merino grazing, to the amped up sound of bleating. In a way, Alessandro is as we speak’s Jason in menswear – completely on a quest for the golden imply, the best proportion, the yet-to-be-invented materials. “Only one word for that – bucolic!” enthused CEO Gildo Zegna, clearly delighted by the present and the style.
See catwalkZegna – Fall-Winter2025 – 2026 – Menswear – Italie – Milan – ©Launchmetrics/highlight
Sartori’s extensive ranging expertise had been additionally mirrored within the wide-ranging solid and entrance row. On the prairie runway, actor John Turturro modelled, wanting faintly bewildered by all the eye, becoming a member of veteran French mannequin Alain Gossuin. Seated amongst stars, Zegna ambassador Mads Mikkelsen, and grasp thespian Giancarlo Esposito. Not like the buttoned-up shirt and tie legal Gus Fring in his most well-known function in “Breaking Bad,” Esposito appeared suitably dandy in a pale slate matching jerkin, gilet and pants. Requested how he felt about attending his first style present, Giancarlo replied: “I loved it. Now, I want to go shopping for more clothes!”