Printed
January 19, 2025
Italian manufacturers focused on getting again to work this season, with plenty of good new workwear, stunning statements by legacy marques and a few novel off-bike concepts. As Pitti celebrated its 107th version, FashionNetwork.com checked out Piacenza 1733, Colnago, TRC and Luis Figo.
Piacenza 1733
One of many nice undiscovered manufacturers of Italy is cashmere specialist Piacenza 1733, a slumbering large which is waking up with appreciable aptitude.
Piacenza. 1733 – a contemporary take by probably the most venerable marque – Piacenza. 1733
Piacenza 1733 is among the misplaced venerable luxurious manufacturers on the planet. Its founding household nonetheless owns the corporate, and Vasiliy Piacenza a gentlemanly member of its 14th technology guided editors and consumers round its stand in Pitti. Based mostly round Biella, like famed marques corresponding to Zegna or Loro Piana, Piacenza 1733 concentrates on actually distinctive high quality. This decade, the household concern has continued to broaden, buying Lanificio Piemontese and Lanificio Cerruti, whose scion was Nino Cerruti, was among the best half-dozen menswear designers of the previous half century.
The Piacenza clan produce such top-notch high quality materials they provide the likes of Chanel and Hermès. Now they’re focusing extra on their very own label Piacenza 1733, and the outcomes are spectacular. “We like to call it smart luxury and not quiet luxury,” smiled Vasiliy, who exhibits off some marvelously cool ikat-inspired mohair cashmere sweaters, their furry end created by hand with actual thistles. The plant that varieties the logo to the model brand. Blends of Alashan cashmere, vicuna and alpaca mixed in tremendous mild Aran Islands sweaters with three-dimensional dots with pointelle motifs and geometric rhomboids. Whereas their tailoring impressed with a sequence of graphic Argyle or Truthful Isle patterns utilized in mushy gentlemanly boho coats. All utilizing an sudden palette of beige, palest grey, sea blues and Connemara marble inexperienced. “We are a vertically integrated company, from making the threads to creating our own ready-to-wear,” underlines Vasiliy. Subsequent step, opening a boutique in central Milan, additional elevating the profile of Piacenza 1733, probably the most venerable of marques that now appears very with it.
Colnago
Off-bike perspective is all the fad at Pitti, particularly at Colnago, an iconic Italian model, which unveiled its first vogue capsule assortment.
Colnago’s first attire assortment – Colnago
Famend for its top-tier racing bicycles, chosen by the world’s biggest bike owner Tadej Pogacar, three-time winner of the Tour de France. Although, tellingly, Colnago’s off-bike assortment avoids technical efficiency materials, and concentrates on informal ease. From elegant and light-weight cashmere polo shirts and neat cotton aertexes, to sweatshirts and an excellent padded safari jacket with excessive collar. The final manufactured by Loro Piana. All made in black or midnight blue; all completed with refined gold stripe; all accomplished with an all-black shamrock brand. No marvel Colnago titles itself as a legacy Italian model “with the soul of champions.” A savvy providing from Colnago, which lately celebrated its seventieth anniversary by launching this leisurewear capsule assortment. Offered on a stand that includes the Steelnovo – a surprising metal bicycle. With good striped-back Italian traces, and high-tech breaks, a limited-edition bike priced at €17,500.
TRC
Received at hand it to TRC, their garments have probably the most exceptional hand.
Pitti’s greatest workwear – TRC – TRC
TRC is a 50/50 three way partnership between two family-owned north Italian corporations, the 80-year-old Candiani famed for its superior denim, and Grassi, an over 100-year-old superior attire maker. TRC’s collections actually mixed the perfect of each homes most notably its Mineral Denim line. Made within the darkest of palettes – deep blues, black and shimmering anthracite – and minimize generously, this was the perfect take at Pitti on workwear – an enormous and rising development in menswear. The place basalt, utilized in soil regeneration, sulfur and graphite, to create exceptional floor finishes, mix to make some very completely different fashionable vogue.
Luis Figo
Imitation just isn’t the best type of flattery at Luis Figo. The famed Portuguese footballer offered his newest vogue assortment in Pitti, and it was a blatant copy of Brunello Cucinelli. Luis Figo just isn’t the one model to have pinched Brunello’s aesthetic of soppy tones, elegant tailoring and breezy perspective – Eleventy and Seinse have copied a couple of as nicely.
Luis Figo channels Brunello Cucinelli – Luis Figo
However Figo takes the prize as probably the most blatant. Evident from the go well with he’s sporting – a pale grey chalk stripe double breasted go well with that was traditional Cucinelli. Till that’s, one gave it a Seventh Avenue Handshake, that means one felt the lapel between thumb and finger and the standard was two-levels beneath Brunello. In case you doubt this, when one requested Figo why he had created a vogue model, he replied: “Well, I am a businessman who wants to make some money. So, I wanted something like Brunello Cucinelli at an approachable price point. I am not a designer, but I know what I like.” There you go. Furthermore, his accomplice Gandolfo Albanese even labored for Cucinelli earlier than establishing the Luis Figo model. As a participant, Luis was distinctive – successful the Ballon d’Or, soccer’s biggest particular person prize, in 2020. And wowing, together with his intense fashion of play, dynamic dribbling and stylish contact. Nonetheless, he’s additionally infamous for leaving Barcelona for bitter rivals Actual Madrid in the identical 12 months. Creating a lot animosity within the subsequent Classico between the 2 groups, that 98,000 followers hurled insults at him inside Barcelona’s Camp Nou stadium, amid banners labelling him a “Traitor,” “Judas” and “Mercenary.” Fortunately for Luis that didn’t occur at Pitti his season.
